ERYRI – SNOWDONIA
Located in southern Eryri, 99 Barmouth Bay is the ideal base exploring the mountains of North Wales. Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon) is about 25 miles away (50 minutes by car to Beddgelert); Cader Idris is about a 30-minute drive as are the Moelwyns, while the Rhinogs are even closer.
My mother was born in Dolgellau and we visited my Nain and Anti May at Plas Canol just off the town square at least once a year for our family holidays. So I feel as though I grew up in this part of Eryri. It’s one of the reasons I decided to get a caravan near Barmouth – I know the area well, yet every time I visit, I discover something new.
Most of the things to do are outdoors, so let’s explore…
The Beach
Sometimes I’ll spend a day walking on the beach and along the Ysgethin River which runs alongside the site and into the sea. The five miles of sands runs from Llanaber just north of Barmouth to Shell Island, just south of Harlech. The beach is a few minutes from the caravan and is never busy. Dogs are allowed all year round. The sunsets over Lleyn are spectacular.
Ysgethin River
There’s a large car park at the Ysgethin Inn in
Tal-y-bont. Go behind the pub to the Ysgethin River walk along the banks of the fast-flowing mountain river. Ideal for a short riverside walk or follow the river up into the Rhinnog hills and join the ancient drovers trail.
Roman Steps
This is a proper hike up into the Rhinnogs. Go prepared. It’s one of the more remote areas of Eryri. Drive to Llanbedr and turn right at the Victoria Inn. Follow the road and then track until you reach Llyn Cwm Bychan. Park in the field by the lake and follow the sign for the Roman Steps.
Llynnau Cregennen
One of my favourite day trips is to head up to the slopes of Cader Idris for a walk around Llynnau Cregennen (Cregennen Lakes) before dropping down into Dolgellau and then back along the Mawdach Estuary to Tal-y-Bont. From Barmouth, go over the toll bridge at Penmaenpool, turn right and take a left up the track into the mountains just as you get to Arthog. The views from the lakes over Barmouth are lovely. There’s a National Trust car park, but be warned, it doesn’t take card payments. Find out more here
Barmouth
I love Barmouth. We went every year with Nain and Anti May when I was growing up. They were strict Baptists and didn’t approve of the pubs, amusements and other diversions at the town end of the beach. So we always headed for the quieter far end and made a picnic site close to the groynes.
Rediscovering Barmouth many years later, I am struck by its quirkiness. It’s got character and charm and an interesting history. In summer, there re so many people from Birmingham in Barmouth that I sometimes wonder if there is anyone left in the Second City.
Fairbourne
Facing Barmouth across the Mawddach estuary, Fairbourne couldn’t be more different. It’s windswept dunes and marshy fieldsare a far cry from the seaside delights of Barmouth. Fairbourne has got a fascinating history and a miniature.
Read about the history here
and find railway details here
Portmeirion
Portmeirion is beautiful. Best-known for its Italiante village and as the location for the cult 60s TV show, The Prisoner, it also has 70 acres of magnificent gardens and a wonderful beach along the Dwyryd Estuary
The site was aquired in 1925, Welsh architect Clough Williams-Ellis. He had been searching for a suitable site for his proposed ideal village for several years and when he heard that the Aber Iâ estate near Penrhyndeudraeth was for sale, he did not hesitate to make an offer.
There’s so much to write about Portmeirion. Take a look at the website for more info here
The cost of an annual ticket is £40 and a day ticket is £20, so it’s worth getting the annual pass if you plan to return.
DOLGELLAU
Dolgellau is the former County Town of Merionethshire, so has a particular status in this part of Gwynedd. It’s also where my mother was born and raised. The building where she was born was Siop Newydd on Eldon Square, a hardware shop where the family of eight girls lived with my nain and taid. It’s now Hunky Dory Vintage. Should you be interested in a social history of the area based on a history of the family you’ll find the Merched Siop Newydd book here.
The town is largely welsh-speaking and is a popular holiday destination and base for people exploring Eryri. The great travel writer Jan Morris had a great love of Dolgellau and describes the town thus: “It is still a tight tumble of grey stones that might almost have fallen there in an avalanche. As you wander its crinkled passages, out of that plaza-like main square from one urban cranny to another, grey stones all around you, tall grey walls above – as you potter about town you may sometimes imagine yourself to be in some immemoriably ancient borough.”
Take the train
The train from Birmingham to Pwllheli stops at Tal-y-Bont about a 25-minute walk from the caravan. Head north to Criccieth (great castle) Pwllheli, Portmadoc, Minffordd (Port Meirion) or south across Barmouth Bridge to Towyn and down to Machynlleth.
FOOD AND DRINK
FISH AND CHIPS: Almost everybody says that the Mermaid Fish Bar in Barmouth does the best fish and chips for miles around and the length of the queue testifies to its reputation. However, I rate the Dolphin in Barmouth as being as good as, if not better than the Mermaid. Plus, there’s usually a choice of cod, plaice and haddock at the Dolphin rather than just cod at the Mermaid. The Carousal Cafe has the advantage of having plenty of seating, but the most interesting thing about the place is that generations of pranksfters have stole the letter C from the large sign, thus making it the Arousal Cafe.
BARMOUTH MILK BAR: There are plenty of good cafes in Barmouth, but the Milk Bar is in a class of its own. It’s difficult to explain what makes this place so special, yet so normal. Try it and you’ll understand.
